Babylonstoren
Most estates grow grapes and add a garden. Babylonstoren did it backwards — and that's the whole point. Here's how to read the Cape's most photographed farm, which bottle to carry home, and the table you book weeks out.
Come for the wine and you'll have the order wrong. That's not a knock — it's the key to the whole place.
Babylonstoren is a restored seventeenth-century Cape Dutch farm below the Simonsberg, near Simondium at the head of the Franschhoek valley, and it is one of the oldest werf sites in the Cape — gabled manor house, a cluster of whitewashed outbuildings, the lot. But what pulls people up the drive isn't the history or the cellar. It's an eight-acre garden and a converted cowshed serving lunch. The wine follows, clean and deliberate, and it knows its place in the running order.
The garden runs everything
Start here, because the estate does. The formal garden is laid out in tight geometric beds, modelled on the old Company's Garden that once grew fresh food for Dutch East India Company ships anchored in Table Bay. Everything in it earns its bed — edible, useful or medicinal, hundreds of kinds of fruit, vegetables, herbs and indigenous plants, threaded through with clivias, prickly pears, a bee garden and a stream. Beautiful without trying to be. A kitchen garden blown up to the size of a small park.
Most estates grow grapes and add a garden. Babylonstoren grew a garden and added everything else.
That inversion is the point of the place. The garden feeds the restaurants; the restaurants set the menus; the whole farm swings on what ripened that week. It's the rare wine estate where the wine isn't quite the headline — and, sensibly, the wines are made to sit inside that world rather than shout over it. Keep it in mind before you dismiss them as an afterthought. They aren't one.
The vision, and who's behind it
One eye shaped all of this. Karen Roos, a former magazine editor, reimagined the farm with her husband Koos Bekker, whose fingerprints are across much of the country's media. Roos's aesthetic — restrained, textural, quietly expensive — carries from the whitewashed shed that holds Babel right down to the pale glass of the rosé. Singular taste, real resources behind it, and it shows in every corner. (Confirm ownership and roles against the estate's site — see flags.)
The wines, and the one to carry home
Drink the garden, essentially. The range is fresh and precise and made for the table, not for the medal cabinet. Its heart is Chenin Blanc — South Africa's signature white and the Cape's most adaptable grape — bottled solo and as the spine of the Babel white blend. Bright, dry, orchard-clean whites that taste like the beds they grow beside.
The one everyone knows on sight is the Mourvèdre rosé: pale, bone-dry, Provence in cut, the bottle that covers half the tables in the Winelands come summer. The serious statement is the red — a Cape Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and its cousins, built to age rather than to flatter you on release. There's more around the edges: other whites and reds, a Cap Classique in some years. Treat the exact line-up as a thing to check on the estate's site, since it moves. For where all of it sits in the valley's larger story, see our guide to Franschhoek wine.
Visiting: give it the whole day
Here's the play: block out a full day, not a tasting stop. Walk the garden — guided or on your own — taste in the cellar, then eat. And on that: skip the reflex booking at Babel if you only want lunch with a view, and take the lighter, glass-walled Greenhouse instead; save Babel for when the meal is the event, because it's one of the hardest tables in the Cape and you'll want to have earned it. Beyond that there's the farm shop, the bakery, the garden spa, and cottages if you stay over. Few places in the Winelands do this many things this well.
The timing that matters: book genuinely ahead for the restaurants, tastings, tours and rooms — weeks, over summer and the holidays, when the whole estate is at full tilt. The grounds and the shop stay relaxed enough to walk into. Everything worth the trip does not. Reserve through the estate's own site, which carries the current details.
What to buy
One bottle home, make it the Babel white or a straight Chenin Blanc — the house at its most itself, the garden in a glass. The Mourvèdre rosé is the easy summer yes, pale and dry and gone before you notice. And if you've room and a little patience, the Nebukadnesar Bordeaux-style red is the estate stretching for something that outlasts the trip.
Since the trip here is a full day, booked weeks out, plan the rest of the valley around it. Here's how to tour Franschhoek — the tram, the driver or the wheel, and how to shape a day among the estates.
Common questions
For anything you'd travel for, yes. The garden tours, the tastings, Babel and the Greenhouse, the spa, a night in the cottages — reserve them all ahead, because they sell out fast over summer and the holidays. The farm shop and the grounds you can wander more freely. But don't gamble on the good stuff at the door; book through the estate's site before you leave home.
The garden — and it isn't close. Eight acres of formal fruit-and-vegetable beds, modelled on the old Company's Garden that once resupplied Dutch East India Company ships in Table Bay, and the reason most people come at all. The Babel restaurant runs a close second. The wine is genuinely good — clean, fresh, Chenin-led, with a serious Bordeaux-style red — but here it plays a supporting role, and knowingly so.
It straddles the line, and you'll see it both ways. The farm sits near Simondium at the head of the Franschhoek valley, below the Simonsberg, and everyone folds it into a Franschhoek day. But its wine-of-origin ward is Simonsberg-Paarl, so a bottle might read Paarl, or the broader Coastal region, depending on the wine. Visit it as Franschhoek; read the label as Paarl.
Babel is the farm-to-table restaurant, set in a whitewashed old cowshed, where most of what lands on the plate was picked a few steps away that morning. The kitchen builds dishes around colour and around whatever the garden is giving up that week. It's one of the hardest tables to get in the Cape — book weeks out, not days.
Glossary
- Babel
- Babylonstoren's flagship restaurant, named for the farm, set in a whitewashed former cowshed and built around produce picked from the estate's own garden.
- Company's Garden
- The seventeenth-century Cape Town garden that grew fresh food for passing Dutch East India Company ships; Babylonstoren's formal garden is modelled on it.