Ruinart
The oldest Champagne house of them all, founded in Reims in 1729 — and the one that bet everything on Chardonnay. Here's what to drink, why the chalk cellars matter, and how to get into a maison that doesn't do walk-ins.
Every other great house in Champagne was built on Pinot Noir muscle. Ruinart wasn't. It went the other way — chalk and white grapes — and it's been doing that longer than anyone, because it got here first.
Founded in Reims in 1729, this is the oldest established Champagne house, launched by a cloth merchant named Nicolas Ruinart a full generation before Champagne became the drink of coronations and courts. The idea wasn't even his. It came from his uncle, the Benedictine scholar Dom Thierry Ruinart, whose name the prestige cuvée still carries three centuries on. That's the quiet flex behind the label: not the biggest house, not the loudest, but the first — and still recognizably itself.
The chalk is the whole story
Understand one thing about Ruinart and make it the crayères. Beneath Reims runs a honeycomb of chalk pits, dug by hand as quarries back in Gallo-Roman times — vast, bottle-shaped chambers that plunge tens of metres straight down. Ruinart ages its wine here, in cool, damp, permanent gloom, and these cellars are part of the UNESCO listing that protects Champagne's coteaux, maisons et caves.
Champagne is a wine of chalk, and nowhere is that more literal than forty metres down in the Ruinart crayères.
This isn't theatre. The chalk holds a steady cool temperature and high humidity year-round, which lets the wine age slowly and evenly — the exact reason a house this obsessed with freshness can also afford to leave its top bottles in the ground for years before it lets them go.
The wines: Chardonnay, top to bottom
The range reads like a single argument made at three volumes.
Start with the Ruinart Blanc de Blancs. This is the house in a glass — pure Chardonnay, fresh and chalky, with the citrus-and-white-flower lift that makes the style so easy to fall for. It's the clearest, most affordable statement of what Chardonnay actually does in Champagne, and the one to open first.
Dom Ruinart is the same conviction pushed to its edge: the prestige cuvée, made only in strong vintages from grand cru Chardonnay, aged long in the crayères. It's serious, ageworthy, one of the reference-point Blanc de Blancs for all of Champagne — a wine built to reward ten years or more of waiting. When you want the argument made in full, this is the one to cellar.
Between them sits the Ruinart Rosé, and it's the quiet surprise. Where most rosé Champagne leans Pinot, this one stays Chardonnay-forward — bright, precise, more about lift than weight. It's the house pink for anyone who finds most rosé too broad. Across everything, the through-line holds: Chardonnay first, freshness over power, chalk over fruit. For the wider picture of the region's grapes and styles, see Champagne wine.
Getting in — by appointment only
Be clear-eyed here. Ruinart doesn't run a casual tasting room, and it never has. There's no walk-up, no drop-by. Visits happen strictly by appointment, in limited numbers, and they book out — this is one of the harder tables in Reims to get, so treat it that way.
When you're in, the draw is the descent. A guided walk down into the crayères, forty metres beneath the maison, then a seated tasting of the house wines. It's among the most atmospheric cellar visits anywhere in Champagne, and the setting does half the work — you're tasting the wine inside the chalk that shaped it.
Sort it weeks ahead, more in peak season. Formats and availability shift, so confirm the current options directly with the maison before you build a day around them.
What to buy
One bottle home? Make it the Ruinart Blanc de Blancs — the house at its most characteristic, and the honest entry point to the whole style. Want the full stretch? A good-vintage Dom Ruinart is the one to lay down, the maison at full reach, patient money well spent. And the Ruinart Rosé is the pick for the rosé skeptic — proof a pink can be built on freshness instead of fruit weight.
Common questions
Two things, really. It's the oldest established Champagne house — Reims, 1729, a full generation before anyone else — and it's the one that made Chardonnay its whole identity while the neighbors leaned on Pinot Noir. Every wine in the range is white-grape-led, from the entry Blanc de Blancs up to Dom Ruinart. And it ages the lot deep in the crayères, the UNESCO-listed chalk pits carved beneath the city.
Yes, but plan for it. This is a prestige house, not a walk-up cellar door — visits to the crayères and the tastings that follow happen strictly by appointment, in small numbers, and they book out. Sort it weeks ahead, more in peak season, or you'll be looking at the gate from the outside. It's one of the harder tables in Reims to land.
Same idea, two intensities. The non-vintage Ruinart Blanc de Blancs is the house style you can pour tonight — fresh, chalky, immediate. Dom Ruinart is that conviction taken to the limit: the prestige cuvée, made only in strong vintages from grand cru Chardonnay and given long years in the crayères before release. One is the everyday statement; the other is the same statement, concentrated, and built to reward a decade of patience.
In spirit, absolutely. The signature and the prestige wine are both 100% Chardonnay, and even the rosé leans on white grapes. There are a few other cuvées, but Chardonnay is the through-line the whole house is organized around — freshness over power, chalk over fruit.
Glossary
- Crayères
- Chalk cellars — vast bottle-shaped pits dug by hand into the soft chalk beneath Reims, originally Gallo-Roman quarries and now used to age Champagne at a cool, constant temperature. Ruinart's are among the deepest and are part of the UNESCO World Heritage listing.
- Blanc de Blancs
- Champagne made entirely from white grapes — in practice, Chardonnay. It is the style Ruinart is built around, giving wines that are fresh, chalky and precise rather than broad and fruit-driven.
- Prestige cuvée
- A house's top bottling, usually made only in the best vintages and given extra ageing. Ruinart's is Dom Ruinart, named for the Benedictine monk Dom Thierry Ruinart, whose nephew founded the house.